St. Christopher (don’t even think of calling it St. Kitts)

DSC_0093We enjoyed Nevis, but one of the highlights of the year was our opportunity to sail to Chris’ namesake island, St. Christopher, also (properly) known as St. Kitts (just don’t know it as St. Kitts in front of Chris!)  We arrived in sparkling sunshine in the secluded harbor of White House Bay on the south side of the island.  It was a lovely day for snorkeling the wreck, swimming, and taking it easy (after schoolwork, of course).  Porter worked on learning the bowline knot and I played with some extra line, making decorative knotwork.  It was a quiet day, with just the five of us together.  As much as we love being “out there” and experiencing all that this world has to offer, we know that quiet days like this are what our kids will remember when they think about how much we love them.  That and the fact that their dad squirts Redi-Whip directly into their mouths from time to time!coolwhip

more fun with knots...

more fun with knots…

The next morning was overcast and drizzling.  We didn’t quite know what to do as the weather has been picture perfect since the day we left North Carolina last November!  We moved the boat to Port Zante, a small marina in Basse Terre.  The dockmaster hooked us up with Wayne, who came down to the boat and took our 60 pounds of laundry.  It had been awhile!  We were happy with the $1.50/pound rate.

carChris and I left the kids on the boat and headed to customs to check in.  Afterwards, we went through the ridiculous cruiseship shopping area, looking for a t-shirt that said “St. Christopher”.  They don’t make them.  All they have is “St. Kitts”.  I had one unhappy camper on my hands for the rest of the day.

On the way back to the boat, we met “Up 2 De Time” and scored us a tour guide for the next day.  Still deciding what I’m going to paint across my windshield when we get home…

 

shiggityThat night, we took a taxi to the hotel area to check out the beach and to have dinner at Mr. X’s Shiggidy Shack.  We didn’t see my friend the ambassador, but we had a nice dinner and met a great family from New Jersey.  They were on vacation and we enjoyed exchanging stories about our journey and their many trips to St. Kitts.

sunset at the Shiggity Shack

sunset at the Shiggidy Shack

beach shack

the old St. Kitts slave market

the old St. Kitts slave market

The next day, we took a leisurely drive around the whole island and enjoyed the many different areas.  This first picture is not very clear, but we were not able to stop due to traffic.  This public square and park was once the slave market of St. Kitts.  It was horrible to drive by it.  I could feel the pain in the ground.  I could see it in the air above the park.  There were trees there that were definitely old enough to have seen the horrors that took place there.  I am reading a book called A Concise History of the Caribbean.  First of all, it is NOT concise.  But more to the point, it speaks at length of the slave trade in the Caribbean and it was just as active as that in the colonies.

Here is the rest of our tour, in pictures:bird

We pass a tree that was FULL of these graceful birds.  I caught this one as he prepared to take off.govt housing

This is the government housing.  Our tourguide says that the incumbent politicians build these houses right before election time, in order to win voters.  I think they are cute.  Can’t beat the view!fire

Garbage is burned in the Caribbean.  Back home, a sight like this would be cause for alarm.  We just drove right on by.  We are used to seeing smoke curling up through the sky from the hills above the towns.bush

We stop at a botanical garden but it was closed.  This bush stood next to the main gate.  Reese looks so small next to it!wall

A pretty stone wall surrounds the garden.  Wish we could have seen the inside.wall girlpurple flowerold rd

We drive through a small village on the west coast and find that it is the site of the earliest settlers on St. Kitts.signpetro

Just up the street are a group of rocks with petroglyphs by the Amerindians.  (The outline of the petroglyphs is filled in with paint.)  St. Kitts was previously known as Liamigua, The Fertile Island.  It has been inhabited since 2500 B.C.  In 1623, Carib Indian Chief Tegreman welcomed the first European settlers on Old Road.rum treeOn the lighter side, a few locals with a good sense of humor made this “Rum Tree” for tourists who ask how rum is made.

sugar millWe visit the remains of an old sugar plantation.  As usual, a rum distillery was located right next to it.  These were the most intact remains we have seen.  kid bowl

vines

Porter looks tiny next to these Tarzan vines!saman tree

This 400 year old Saman tree rooted itself in our hearts.  It is Nature’s majesty at its best.  You can’t help but wonder what this tree has born witness to in it’s lifetime.pac climb

…like little boys climbing on its branches!sweet pac

Porter looks at the sky through the treetop branches.flowwr steps

Stone steps.  Strewn with flower petals.  Pink flower petals.  And an ivy covered wall.  Just kill me now.mom bac

My big guy….mom pac

And my little guy.yellow house

The iconic Caribbean colors and architecture on display at Caribelle Batik, a traditional batik studio.batiks

Newly dyed batiks drying in the breeze.batikgarden

The stunning gardens near the Saman tree.fort

Are you up for listening to me talk about yet another Caribbean fort?  The Brimstone Hill Fort on St. Kitts was the biggest and most impressive one we have visited.  We were there for hours and didn’t scratch the surface of the extensive grounds.cannonpacforts

Ruins of the soldier’s quarters.statue

road

Driving through the wet, winding roads of the countryside.  Is it lunch time yet?coops

We love roadside restaurants.  Coopers was no exception.  Falling apart building, flies everywhere, an actual outhouse for a bathroom, and incredibly slow service.  All made up for by the incredible food, cooked with fresh natural ingredients and recipes handed down generation to generation by people who love to cook good food.coopers

Is it bad if your kids just sidle up to a bar and order themselves a drink?  Have we been in the Caribbean too long???eac

Happy to be here.  Right here.  Right now.  Ram Dass would be proud of me.

Our new friend grates potatoes for Conkies

Our new friend grates potatoes for Conkies

Here is our friend making Conkies for Easter weekend.  Conkies bear a large similarity to tamales, though instead of having filling rolled inside the dough, the cornmeal is mixed together with grated sweet potato, pumpkin, coconut, and a few other ingredients.  After wrapping the dough in banana leaves, they’re boiled rather than steamed.  We hoped to try some before we left, but we never found them.  I’m going to try making them myself.goats

A couple of goats check us out as we drive by.rope

Last stop: the Black Rocks.  Pretty spectacular views.black rock

St. Christopher is an amazing island, rich in history.  There is a lot to do and it is close to Nevis.  We would visit again and spend more time.  But Anguilla was waiting for us, along with the scare of my life…

2 thoughts on “St. Christopher (don’t even think of calling it St. Kitts)

  1. Oh, a cliffhanger! Can’t wait for the next “installment, ” Erica. I was in Naturally Yoga last night and I dreamed that you were there. Can’t wait to see you. Love, Fran

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