We took our trip to the BVIs during President’s Week, in February of 2011. The trip was so much more than we had anticipated. Bryson and Cindy were the most generous and entertaining hosts. Their boat, Xanadu, is beautiful, comfortable, and spacious. We visited all the islands in the BVIs that I had dreamed about since our honeymoon. The weather was amazing, the island beaches were pristine, and Bryson knew all the local spots for the best snorkeling, sunsets, and happy hours. But best of all, the children had their sea legs within minutes of getting on the boat. They loved sailing, snorkeling, exploring, and playing together for the whole week.
Bryson finds a “friend” less than 3 hours into the trip!
The first day, I was down below unpacking. I could hear Chris and Big Bryson up on deck, talking. Our Bryson came in and asked a question. I started laughing and said to myself, “You know you’re on vacation with Bryson Hall when four minutes into the trip your son asks you what a cock fight is.” It’s best I don’t get into it, but leave it to Big Bryson to know all the locals and their goings-on. The second tip-off that you’re on vacation with Big Bryson is that crazy things happen several times a day. Bryson talks to everyone he meets. Because of this, we run into people he knows wherever we go. We have only the loosest of plans. And if the winds blow differently overnight, a new plan is easily hatched over breakfast. This type of flexibility seemed almost foreign to me. Sponteneity pretty much left my vocabulary about 6,000 diapers ago. But it inspired me to bring some of that philosophy back to our routined life at home.
- The kids make breakfast in the galley.
We all took to living on a boat quite easily. The kids were game for all the little differences in living on board versus living on land. Showers are taken off the back the boat, standing on the swim platform. The head (bathroom) has a toilet that must be pumped to flush it. Fresh water is at a premium and must be stored in tanks on board, so usage must be limited. Washing hands, brushing teeth, washing dishes, showers, and cooking all had to be done quickly, with no waste. The same goes for the electric. When the engine was running, we could charge things like the Hall’s computer, our phones, and iPods. But we had to be careful about turning lights off, using the oven, and running the fridge. I had optimistically brought my blow dryer and timidly asked Bryson what the chances were of me using it during the week. I got a typical look from Bryson, the one that seems to ask, “Are you insane?” I dropped it, and went au natural for the week. Overall, we only had a few mishaps during the week. On the second day, Bryson got a little seasick. Once we got off the boat, he rested for a little while on the beach and then felt fine. And on the last day, Reese and Chris both got stung by jellyfish.
- Shaking off seasickness
Our adventures were everything I had hoped they would be and more. If you are going to visit a non-tourisy place, like the BVI’s, you have to do it with someone who is practically a local. Big Bryson knows all the harbors, all the mooring fields, many of the locals, and all the best places for happy hour. On the first day, we sailed to the island I most wanted to see: Jost Van Dyke. We anchored in White Bay and took the dinghy into the beach. Looking back, I probably could have stayed there the entire week, although everything we did was amazing. But this beach, with it’s pristine white sand, it’s casual, relaxed, “let’s chillax and party” vibe, and it’s little watering hole- the Soggy Dollar Bar, is right up my alley. The bar, aptly named because there is no way to get to it other than swimming in from your boat, even has a tiny clothes line behind the bar to hang everyone’s wet money.
- Parking Lot
Those fortunate enough to have a dinghy ride in and “park” their boats all along the beach. We all had a blast playing the bar’s signature game, which is a variation on the ring toss game. They have a brass ring hanging from a rope on a tree branch. On the tree trunk is a hook. The object of the game is to stand 10 feet away with the ring and allow the ring to swing towards the tree and catch on the hook. It’s not an easy game and gets progressively more difficult after each round of “Painkillers”, the signature drink of the islands. A Painkiller is a yummy drink concocted from rum, freshly ground nutmeg, and some kind of orangy mix of juice and other stuff that I never felt the need to investigate further.
- Tailgating: island style
- After a few rounds of the game (well, after a few rounds of Painkillers too, come to think of it), we hopped back in the dinghy, and took the boat over to Great Bay, which is also part of Jost Van Dyke. We visited the home of Foxy’s, a well-known bar. “Foxy’s” son Wendell also has a “bar” on the beach. Wendell’s World wouldn’t count as an actual establishment here in the states. First, it doesn’t actually have doors or windows. Second, the walls are questionable. And the floor? Is the beach. Nevertheless, it is a magnet spot on the beach for locals and tourists alike, all stopping by to chat with Wendell, have a drink, and watch the passersby on the “street”. It happened to be Wendell’s birthday, so plans for a big bash were underway when we arrived. After meeting the birthday boy, we were put to work hanging balloons and crepe paper, and making signs. This is one of those things that happens only because we’re with Big Bryson.
- Wendell’s Birthday Bash
The kids were happy playing on the beach, although we didn’t realize at the time that they were being devoured by sand fleas and would be scratching at the bites for the rest of the week. We took a walk to see the rest of this harbor town, visiting a partially built ship that is being built by local schoolchildren in an effort to keep the history of island boatbuilding alive. Later that night, we put the kids to bed and Cindy stayed on the boat to babysit while Big Bryson, Chris, and I went to Wendell’s birthday party. It was a lot of fun, with lots of Bob Marley playing and reggae dancing, and a curious fellow with a video camera circa 1990, taping every minute of the party.
- One Love, One Heart. Let’s get together and feel all right.
The next day, Bryson treated us to yet another part of Jost Van Dyke: Little Bay. Lesser frequented, it is the home of Foxy’s Taboo, the restaurant owned by Foxy’s (lesbian) daughter-thus the name, so we were told. It is an interesting natural location. Part of the harbor is calm and protected. The other part of the harbor is separated from the ocean only by a small sandbar. The water crashes over the sandbar and creates a wicked current. As opposed to the smooth, white sand beaches on the rest of the island, the beach here is made up of shells and tiny bits of branch coral. Difficult to walk on, it is nonetheless beautiful and unique. We spent some time searching for shells with which to make a collage. One of the bars back on White Bay is literally COVERED in shells. Everyone is invited to bring a shell collage to hang, if only they can find an empty spot on the wall, ceiling, or porch to hang it!
- Porter works on our sign for the shell bar
After our shell-seeking, we took an action-packed hike, where we saw cacti, climbed over fallen branches, used our trailblazing skills to follow the “marked” path, and met some nice people. Typical Bryson style, we had a crazy adventure that tops it all. He paused on the path and crouched down at a rock. He said, “What’s that?” and pointed to a furry lump under the rock. We all backed up (except him), assuming it was some dead animal or something dangerous and under the heading of “Things Not To Touch While On A Nature Hike”. So of course, Bryson says, “I think it’s alive,” and started poking it. We’re all screaming at him to stop, but it jumped a little, which made its leg stick out. He grabbed the leg, despite our violent protestations, and dragged the animal out from under the rock.
- Our baby goat
He held up the wiggling animal and there was a collective “Awwwww!!!!!” as we all realized that Bryson had found a baby goat. In fact, it was such a newborn that it still had its umbilical cord attached! It was so cute and loved being held by Bryson. We still couldn’t believe that he would just pick up a wild animal on the side of the woods, but we quickly fell in love with the little guy. We didn’t see the mother goat anywhere and were concerned that the goat had been lost or abandoned. Bryson put him up near the top of the hill and, in the distance, we saw the mother turn her head, following the sound of the bleating. We couldn’t believe that he could stand up on those tiny little legs, but he was in a safe place when we left him.
At the top of the winding mountain, we were rewarded with one of the most special places we had ever seen. The Bubbles is a natural swimming hole, at the top of the mountain, created by ocean waves crashing through a cut in the rocks. Over thousands of years, the water cut away at the side of the mountain, creating a small area where the waves could come through at an alarming speed and fury. The power of the water cut out a small swimming hole, where the brave can bathe while trying to withstand the force of the next set of waves. The waves are so strong that the water froths and bubbles-thus the name.
- fun at the bubbles
We enjoyed exploring the lagoon, climbing the rocks around the swimming hole, and allowing the waves to throw us around. Porter was content with finding shells and other beach treasures to decorate his new friend, a coconut he found with holes that made it look like a face.
On the way back down the mountain, we found the baby goat still waiting for his mother, but she was almost to him and he was very excited (and obviously hungry) once she reached him. We don’t know if she put him under that rock to protect him while she was off finding food or if he had gotten lost and was hiding under the rock. The other babies were with her when we saw her off in the distance. But it all ended well and we will never forget our little friend from Jost Van Dyke.
- Porter and “coco-nutty”
When we sailed away from Jost Van Dyke, I knew I’d be back someday. And now that day may be just about a year from now!
- Hammock by a Door
