To Martha’s Vineyard
September 5-September 13
New Feature: I figured out how to make one movie from all the videos from one port. Let’s see how you like it! It’s big, so don’t play if you don’t have a decent internet connection. You can also click the youtube button to play it in youtube instead. The video is available on our youtube.com channel: conwaysailors.com
“I don’t know who named them swells. There’s nothing swell about them. They should have named them awfuls.” -Hugo Vihlen
Do I have to write about feeling seasick? It’s really bad enough dealing with it the first time. Can we just say that we left Newport on the 5th in cloudy weather and headed towards Martha’s Vineyard in heavy winds and 7-11’ seas? Before too long, Reese, Porter, and I were lying in the aft berth together, waiting it out. Bryson and Chris were up on deck and apparently Bryson was feeling pretty awful as well. As soon as we got to the Vineyard Sound (four hours in), the wind died and the waves calmed down. We all popped up, feeling better instantly. Snacks and drinks ensued and soon we were pulling in to Edgartown Harbor, which feels like home to us.
We love Martha’s Vineyard, and especially Edgartown. We have been visiting this island for many years now, by boat and in rented homes, and it is just as magical as it always is. If you haven’t been there, it is a good –sized island. It has several large towns, set in the various corners of the island. Each town has its own history and its own feel to it. We love Edgartown for its easy and relaxed yet pretty and classic feel. The houses are captains’ homes from the 1800’s. Almost all the houses are white clapboard with black shutters. Some have widow’s peaks and you can picture the captains’ wives standing up there watching for their husbands to return from sea. It always makes me think of the French Lieutenant’s Woman.
Today, the small, downtown area is filled with shops and restaurants. There are a few t-shirt shops and a couple of ice cream shops. The rest are lovely boutiques that call for just browsing, but maybe, just maybe you can snag something great after Labor Day, when many stores have 50% off sales (I maybe, just maybe, got a few things before we left, but don’t tell Chris because our magic closet seems to have reached its limit).
We got a mooring through the town and packed up a few things. We headed in for some dinner and went to Art and Mary’s (Chris’ dad and stepmother) new summer house. A storm was coming in, so we decided to stay overnight. Their new house is beautiful and comfortable. It felt like a dream when we sank into their king-sized bed in the guest room. I believe my words were, “I am never leaving this bed.”
The next day, we got to take real-sized showers and we packed up their cool new Jeep so we could head for South Beach in Katama. This is the ocean beach on the south shore of the island. The waves are perfect, the sand is pretty, and we had it almost to ourselves. We are usually here in August, so we really got to enjoy the post-Labor Day benefits! We stayed all day, eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and chips. We read, dug holes in the sand, and played in the water.
The next day, we went to our other favorite beach, State Beach, which is between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs. State Beach is on the Nantucket Sound and has the loveliest water, with little lapping waves. It is perfect for kids with the added bonus of being next to the bridge featured in Jaws (Jaws was filmed on Martha’s Vineyard).
People jump off the bridge into the water, but since it is technically not legal, we had to skip it this year. A certain little girl in our family is quite adamant about following the rules, and we knew she would personally drag us down to the police station if we dared make the leap. One year, I saw Meg Ryan on this beach, which is, like, only the third famous person I’ve ever seen in real life, so don’t worry that I’m going to start name-dropping…
On Friday evening, Art flew up from NJ with Colleen and Kathleen (Chris’ half sisters, who are 15 years old). It was great to see them and catch up on what we are missing back in New Jersey while telling them all about our trip. The next day we went back to State Beach with the girls, which was wonderful. They played with the kids, we all swam together, and we enjoyed another day in one of our favorite places.
That night, we went to a lovely dinner at Lure, in Katama, right by the ocean. It was a great meal and the kids were very impressed with the Kid’s Menu, which included appetizers. Reese was so excited about how grown-up this seemed so we let her order the crudité while Bryson began with the Cheese Plate. It was really cute. Reese also had her first experience with French bread pizza. She didn’t even know what it was. My, how life has changed. I think by her age I had eaten about 9,000 french bread pizzas in my school cafeteria!
On Sunday, Mary was able to join us and she and I went shopping. Chris and Art watched football and the kids (guess which one was probably watched more?). I love shopping with Mary, because her response to every question is, “I love it! Buy it!” But seriously, I was very, very good because we are on a serious budget and we just don’t have room for anything more on Patronus. But 50% off at Lily Pulitzer? Come on…
As the day went on, I got more and more excited about our afternoon plans. Our Blog Friends, the Boyers, were finally going to be Actual Friends! Last year, we had found this family online. They were planning a year-long cruise as well. They left just a few weeks before we did and we have been so excited about meeting up with them en route. Wendy contacted me when they got to Edgartown and we met them at….you guessed it….the ice cream shop. Craig and Wendy have three girls aged 13, 11, and 6. Bryson, Reese, and Porter hit it off with them right from the start while Chris and I soaked up our time with this couple who have chosen such a similar path.
While the kids played, we talked about our inspiration for taking this voyage, our boating experiences, and the various and sundry issues that had come up thus far. We compared notes on favorite places, such as Somes Harbor,Maine and Bristol, Rhode Island. We agreed that figuring out how to get to the Caribbean was a work in progress and that, like much of cruising, our plans seemed to be written in the sand at low tide. Either way, we hoped that we would cross paths many more times throughout the year.
After enjoying a great dinner together at Atria, we took the kids to watch the weigh-in for the Fishing Derby, which had started that day. The kids were already begging to spend more time together, but our friends on Anything Goes had to get started early the next day for Mystic. We will see them again in Annapolis, Maryland in a few weeks. If you enjoy our website, you will love theirs at www.threekidsandaboat.blogspot.com (see our Links in the left margin). Wendy is MUCH BETTER at posting updates in real time!
All of a sudden, everyone was gone and it was just us again. We were getting into a pretty nice routine with homeschooling (after about a week of grumbling) and we just kept going to the beach.
I really enjoyed driving Art and Mary’s manual transmission Jeep around the island. (Now that my minivan is gone, I am intent on getting a stick shift again when we return from our trip!) On Wednesday, I really had fun when we took the Jeep on the “ferry” to Chappaquidick. We drove on the sand/dirt roads to Wasque Beach to the see the breach between Chappy and South Beach. Originally, Chappaquidick and Martha’s Vineyard were connected and the bay between them is called Katama Bay. Over the years, the thin spit of land that connects the two islands has been breached, or washed out, by the ocean.
For the past few years, the breach has been pretty big. We were surprised when we saw how much sand had started to gather just off the beach. A new sandbar was being created and it looked like it would eventually grow to meet back up with South Beach again. The change in the topography and the power of the ocean was awesome to watch. The waves were crashing far off-shore near Seal Island, a new island created by the massive amounts of sand washed away in the breach. The rip tides are so fierce because of the new sandbars that there is absolutely no swimming allowed on Wasque Beach and there are scores of signs reminding everyone of just how dangerous the water can be.
Our little “vacation” on Martha’s Vineyard was simply lovely. We enjoyed staying in a house for awhile and returned to Patronus feeling like we were coming home. I had had my fill of laundry and showers and the kids had enjoyed running around. Chris had his football and I had WiFi. (I also took way more photos than I could jam into this update. So I am going to publish another post just for the rest of the pictures. I knew this day would come….) On September 13th, we left Martha’s Vineyard for a lovely spot we discovered last year: Cuttyhunk, in the Elizabeth Islands…